Saturday, September 6, 2008

LIFE IN BOGOTÁ – OUR FIRST IMPRESSIONS…

Isabel looking out the window of one of the local pubs (Bogotá Beer Company) in our neighbourhood where we drank fresh mango juice on a lazy Friday afternoon.
Our new home… Bogotá has a population of nearly 8 million people, so needless to say it is a busy city. Heavy traffic is a way of life; rather than something that occurs at specific hours of the day. Even once our car arrives, I don’t imagine that I will be eager to drive. Then again, even though many things in our neighbourhood are within walking distance… walking is not a popular past-time here. People seem to drive their cars for activities just blocks away. Good thing that I am not shy when it comes to exploring. Our neighbourhood, called Usaquén, is tucked away from the activity of the busy city and offers so many delightful things to see at every turn that I cannot help but just put Isabel in the back-pack and walk. There is a beautiful little playground right in our building – which is wonderful for playtime when we just have a few moments to sneak away. We are also surrounded by parks with slides and swings and monkey bars at almost every turn. The swings are amazing – so wide that Isabel can swing easily all on her own.
There is also great shopping centre; Hacienda Santa Barbara was actually built around what used to be a home… it is an unusual shopping mall with both indoor and outdoor shops and cafes throughout. The Hacienda has a Lebanese restaurant – which is such a blessing as I don’t know what Isabel would do without her daily hummus snack.
Each Sunday the streets of Usaquén are filled with stalls offering everything from handmade wooden crafts to paintings to delicious corn on the cob to jewellery and much more… it’s wonderful to just walk around and discover the various crafts. There is even a yoga studio just a few blocks away – where I hope to go on my birthday (this Sunday) for an early morning class.
The architecture and vegetation make all the streets come alive – whether it is raining or shining everywhere we look around us the views in our neighbourhood are just gorgeous. Everything is so lush and full of colour – the flowers on the trees are beautiful; and the varieties of birds sing some delightful tunes. The architecture offers a breath of fresh air as each home is designed with different lines and colours. It is so wonderful to walk down the streets and see such diversity from.
Our apartment is beautiful. We are still getting settled in so it’s missing that ‘personal touch’ but that will come once more of our stuff arrives. There is a fireplace in the living room which we light almost every night – it offers a good source of heat on the cool evenings. The family room has become Isabel’s playground and it’s great for her to have this space of her own. And there are windows everywhere – with a wonderful view in each direction. The calm of our neighbourhood makes it especially striking to look out the windows to a sea of lights from this major city centre. The kitchen is something to rave about – even compared to the one we had back home.

The food… oh so much I can say about the delicious food. The fruits and vegetables are out of this world. I am truly short on words to explain how amazing the selection is – though there aren’t the typical items we are used to like strawberries and grapes and blueberries. But the wide array of other options means that we do not lack for anything. The mangos and avocados are the size of several put together that we would purchase back home in Ottawa. And the carrots we got the other day were gigantic – and so sweet!!! I laughed out loud when I opened a watermelon to discover it filled with seeds… oh how quickly we get used to the wonders of genetically modified foods. Yet the rich taste of the watermelon was so sweet and juicy it was irresistible… the seeds were quickly forgotten, even by Isabel.
We have heard that the restaurants are also fabulous and appear in large numbers. In our neighbourhood alone you can find Italian, Chinese, Japanese, Thai, and much more!! For now, we have been having fun enjoying home-cooked meals, but I am certain we will take advantage of the culinary specialities offered about town.
One thing to note is that it is difficult to find foods that are low in sugar – there is no such thing as plain yoghourt here; or rather, plain simply means loaded with sugar (or fructose). It’s quite an adjustment. Natural and organic products are also hard to find. I have been unable to find any fresh juices that are not filled with all sorts of things that should not be there – but I have quickly discovered that it is just easier to make your own juice here. Something we enjoy each morning!!

The people… I cannot say enough amazing things about the people here in Bogotá. We have been met with amazing hospitality and kindness from everyone we encounter. Friends of friends made offers to pick us up at the airport; and now that we are here to drive us for groceries, give us tours of the city, and so on and so forth. One of our neighbours, Fernanda, who lives in the building with her husband, daughter (3) and son (1) (she is here from Mexico City on account of her husbands work), came to introduce herself the very first day we arrived. She has since become an instant friend and amazing resource – and her daughter (Carola) is Isabel’s first girlfriend here in the city. It’s amazing to watch how kids play – they seem to break down any barriers of language and culture and simply enjoy each others company. We feel so blessed to have met Fernanda – as she is able to help us navigate some of the nuances of life in Bogotá.

Weather & Altitude… Bogotá is located 2640 metres above sea level, which makes it the third-highest major city in the world after La Paz and Quito. The altitude means that it is not quite as ‘warm’ as many other areas so close to the equator. The average temperature on the 'sabana' is 14.0°C (57°F), varying from −8°C (18°F) to 23°C (74°F). When we arrived we were quite surprised at just how ‘cold’ it felt; compared to the warmth of the summer in Ottawa. But then the weekend was glorious and sunny, encouraging us to spend as much time outside as possible. What we have learned is that the weather hear changes in heartbeat so one really needs to be prepared for anything. This afternoon we left our house and the sun was shining; and without much warming the weather shifted and it began to rain; a few minutes later the sun came out again.
The altitude has definitely had an effect on our energy level: leaving us tired and short of breath after any amount of even brief activity. Isabel seems to be the most adaptable having completely settled into all aspects of her new home. She is running and enjoying herself: not even noticing that we are 2600m closer to the stars.
For those of you planning to visit – you don’t need a winter coat, but do bring a jacket (and a raincoat). The temperature will vary and is reminiscent of early fall: when the sun hides it can feel quite cool, but as soon as it peaks out you need to take off the layers as the rays are really strong.
I am definitely finding myself missing some key items – such as good rainboots and a raincoat, as well as some warmer sweaters and pants, and good shoes. I had hoped to do some shopping once we arrived, but everything here is very expensive… so, it looks like I will just need to make do for now.

Challenges… Nothing is without its opportunities for growth, and there are many presenting themselves for us each day. We realised this week that we might have been rushing our integration a little hoping to place Isabel in preschool a few mornings a week. The goal was to offer her a space with other kids so she could learn Spanish and get some good quality playtime. We went to see a few centres and got some glowing recommendations; unfortunately, Isabel was not as thrilled with the arrangement as we though she might be. She found the language barrier really difficult and she just wasn’t ready for such a complete experience. We were going to try to ease her in slowly, but we have decided to hold off until she is more comfortable with the language and her new home. In the meantime, I am putting on hold most of my extracurricular activities and focusing on things that will help both her and I learn Spanish and get to know this city a little better – one step at a time.
I too am finding myself a little overwhelmed at times – the first week I was still in a frenzy to get everything organized and make our apartment feel like home... continuing with my energy level from the months leading up to the move. The other day, I realised that we all need to slow down. Everything will come with time… including my comprehension and ability to speak a new language.
Joshua began work on Tuesday – it was hard to suddenly be on my own all day, and when he came home that evening I found myself yearning for adult company (in English)!!! Joshua can walk to work – it is less than 10 minutes away (which is a real treat). He usually leaves early, but is home for dinner at 6pm; and on Fridays he will usually be home by no later than 2pm. It is wonderful. In two weeks he sets off for his first trip and he will be out of town for a few days: yet another reason I am grateful for the friends we have already made here.
Learning about all of the different items here has also been more challenging than I expected. I had no idea that it could be so hard just to find juice, milk or raisins; even soap, Kleenex and toilet paper is hard to find when all the brands and label are unknown. Trying to get things that are ‘all-natural’ or ‘organic’ is absolutely impossible… though I may have found one organic store in Bogotá, now I just need to figure out where it is and how to get there. Luckily, we do have recycling in our building – which is not always the case.

Gratitude… We continue to be in a space of immense gratitude for all our blessings – most of all the amazing friends and family that complete our life. Thanks, in particular, to those of you who offered so much help and support as we prepared for our departure and completed renovations on our home: for the unexpected visits from near and far; for taking Isabel so Joshua & I could take care of the many last minute details; for sending us connections and lists of special attractions here in Bogotá; for introducing us to friends/acquaintances familiar with the city; for giving us food, plates and cutlery once all of our stuff was packed up; for sending messages of love and support; and the list is endless, as is our gratitude. As we expand our community into a new country, we feel strength in knowing that we have such a strong foundation in all of you to carry us through the transitions of the early days of settling into a new life.

Special News… One final piece of news for those of you we have not seen prior to our departure: Isabel will be a big sister as we are expecting a new addition to our family arriving in February 2009. The baby will be born here in Bogotá – a Canadian citizen with a Colombian birthplace. We will be sure to send photos and share updates along the way.

1 comment:

  1. Patuniu Ukochana
    I have heard many comments about how beautiful you write, how interesting and easy is to read your stories. "You should write a book" was said so many times to me and probably to you as well. I hope some day you will.
    Right now I feel very happy but also sad that I cannot just "jump" on the plain and fly to Ottawa, and hold you tight, as I used to do each month. Patience is not an easy task for me but thinking about how rich & wonderful experience you are getting by being exposed to a new culture, language and customs that will enhance your life, eases the pain of being away from those I love most.
    Bless you my one and only beautiful daughter.
    Love you. MAMA

    ReplyDelete

A space for Witty and Inspiring Words from you!! Thanks for taking the time to share your insights!!!