Our first visitors to Bogotá

Last week we enjoyed a fabulous visit with our friends David & Cathy, and their two girls, Kendra (6) and Natasha (3). Isabel was in absolute heaven having two girlfriends to play with around the clock. When they left she spent a full day asking when they would be back.

We began our week with a fabulous long weekend in Anapoime -- a village two hours outside of Bogotá driving along a winding mountainous road (not for the faint of heart). But the drive was worth it as we were blessed with fabulous weather, an amazing view of the mountains, and even someone else to do all the cleaning & cooking as we enjoyed three very relaxing days by the pool. There was even a clay tennis court where a few fun games of tennis were played.

It was also amazing to see some of the landscape outside of Bogotá - what amazing diversity in sites, smells and sounds as we drove through some of the smaller towns.

Upon our return, David, Cathy & the girls took a road trip exploring Bogotá - with a tour of La Candelaria and a trip up Cerro de Monserrate.

Cerro de Monserrate is one of the peaks (3160m above sea level) in the mountain range surrounding the eastern side of Bogotá and overlooking the Sabana de Bogotá. It offers a wonderful view of the city (on clear days), and on weekends has become a mecca for pilgrims who hike one-hour up the mountain to see the statue of the Senor Caido (Fallen Christ) dating from 1650. The Sturdees opted to take the teleferico (cable car) up the mountain side rather than attempting the steep climb (good choice)!!

La Candelaria is the oldest part of the city and known for its museums, cafes dating back nearly a century, museums, cobblestone streets, and Plaza de Bolivar. It offers a little sampling of colonial life in the city. Plaza de Bolivar is the heart of the original town of Bogotá - before it expanded into every direction, especially towards the north. In the middle of the square is a bronze statue of Simon Bolivar (cast in 1846), the work of an Italian artist. This was the first public monument erected in the city of Bogotá. The Capilla del Sagrario dates from the Spanish era, while other buildings surrounding the square are far more recent and range in architectural style from French to neoclassical to modern.

The rest of the week was focused on more activities for the kids - including a trip to Maloka (an interesting science museum), a visit to Parque 93 to play and enjoy some delicious crepes, walking around Santa Barbara Alta & Usaquen, and rounded out by Halloween on Friday. For Halloween we enjoyed face-painting and an indoor treasure hunt. Then in the evening we went trick or treating in a nearby neighbourhood called Santa Ana -- which was absolutely wonderful. The day finished with a view of fireworks from our dining room window that seemed to be coming from the Hacienda Santa Barbara mall down the street.

For the final day of their trip, we drove to Zipaquira to visit the Salt Cathedral and see more of the surrounding terrain -- this time we moved through rolling hills and saw lots of horses and cows along our drive; as well as green-houses dedicated to growing roses and carnations for export. Zipaquira is located 50km north of Bogota and it is noted for its salt mines which are carved into the mountains flanking the west of the town. The mines date back to the Muisca period (700-1600 A.D.). They tap into what is virtually a huge mountain of rock salt -- you can actually taste it in the air as you walk through the cool (temperature) underground paths and caverns. In the heart of the mountain a huge underground Salt Cathedral has been carved out and open to the public since 1954. It was closed in 1992 and scooped out another 60m below the original for safety reasons. The Cathedral is now 75m long and 18m high, and it can accommodate 8400 people for mass on Sundays. The sound in this cathedral is amazing and actually attracts many recording artists. The tour of the mines is marked by the stations of the cross -- all carved into the stone/salt. It is quite spectacular.

On our way home we paused for lunch at a restaurant that attracts people from far and wide -- locals will drive an hour out of Bogotá to dine at Andres Carne de Rez, located in a town called Chia. Our guests also enjoyed a fabulous steak which was like an oasis after dining vegetarian all week long!! This legendary steak-house is more an experience than a restaurant. It is only open on weekends and in the evenings turns into a dining hall/night club that attracts guests into the wee hours of the night. The capacity is well over 2000 people and it is always packed. During the day, there is an amazing section dedicated to activities for kids of all ages -- with actors and dancers moving through the restaurant, an amazing sandbox, face-painting, mask-making, arts & crafts tables, and a place for kids to make their own pizza and desserts. Isabel quickly discovered the pizza-making station and made herself a delicious mushroom and cheese pizza. She finished off her lunch experience with a butterfly painted on her face -- it was the first time she was eager and followed through on getting her face painted. Every day has something of a 'first' to offer!!

You can find a small sampling of photos from the week at

http://picasaweb.google.com/jpstoriesm/jpstories.

What a difference a day makes...

It's amazing what a huge difference it makes to have one's home filled with one's own belongings. Certainly, this has been a huge milestone for all of us. It is wonderful to have our own sheets, pillows and kitchen supplies. Not to mention all of Isabel's things. What a huge difference in her disposition the day our stuff arrived. She is more happy to spend time playing on her own and just enjoying all of 'her' things. Suddenly, our apartment feels so much more like home. It has all the little details that make it ours. I had no idea that this could have such an enormous impact on day to day life.

Life in Bogotá continues to be wonderful. I am so amazed at how easily we have built a community of friends and resources. In just two short months, it feels like home. I must admit that so much of this is due to the phenomenal people we have met -- people coming out from all areas to offer support and information as we need it. Everytime I think that there is something missing, or I am not sure how I will handle a specific issue, someone appears to offer a helping hand. It is a gift beyond words.

I am also slowly settling into a new way of life. At first I was so surprised that there were no 'healthy' snack options for kids... but over the last couple of months I have realised that this simply required a shift in my expectations. I have been used to living in a country where 'fresh' food items are not always readily accessible; so I had grown used to finding healthy, organic alternatives that were packaged. And as I walked the supermarkets here I was amazed that everything packaged - even the stuff for kids - was filled with sugar or fructose, and other things that I would prefer to keep out of Isabel's regular diet routine. But, what is amazing, is to recognize that everything here is available fresh -- I am truly re-engagine in the concept of 'slow cooking' and applying a local diet approach to our eating habits. Rather than getting juice that is packaged, we just make fresh juice everyday... with the variety of fruits and vegetables available this is so easy to do, and amazingly tasty. For snacks, I just cut up fresh fruits or vegetables, rather than looking for something in a package. It takes a little more time, but it is worth the effort. So, I have stopped spending hours trying to read/translate each of the labels, and have left the pre-packaged food aisles to integrate tasty, locally grown food items into our diet. It's wonderful!!! And, I even found delicious all-natural yoghourt -- not exactly what we had at home, but at least it is not filled with food-colouring and fructose/sugar!!! Oh, the little things...

A lot of people are asking me about the weather and whether I miss all the change of seasons. While I do love the charm of each season that blesses Ottawa -- from Spring to Summer to Autumn to Winter -- I must admit that I am loving the temperate climate here in Bogotá. It is so easy, especially with kids. And it's also never predictable. So, if we start our day with rain, we know we just need to wait a few minutes and the sun will inevitably shine. We don't have the joy of running through the spinklers in barefeet (as it is usually far too cold) or catching snowflakes on our tongue or watching the spectacular colours of the leaves transform from day to day. But in many ways it feels like an eternal shift between spring and autumn. The leaves do not change colour, but the foliage is so beautiful as it changes from leaves to buds to blooms. And every once in a while the weather does suprise us with a spectacularly warm day... on Sunday at the park the kids were actually running in the sand with barefeet. It was a beautiful thing to witness and to hear their cheerful screams.

Isabel is also acclimatizing well -- taking everything in at her own pace. She is so eager to learn and each day asks about more Spanish words, and uses them both at home and when we are out. But next year she won't even remember that this used to be a different language. Even for me, the language barrier is slowly disappearing -- thanks in part to wonderful Spanish instructors, and also to the kind nature of the locals. No one minds my mistakes, everyone tries to understand, and makes extra efforts to help me understand them. It makes it so easy to just speak in Spanish -- there is no fear on my end, or judgement on that of the listener. Just people trying to hear and understand each other.

We have our first visitors arriving this week and we are super excited about this -- it will be wonderful to share our experience with friends, and to have the extra company for me and Isabel. It's also a great excuse to explore more of the city, so I am certain I'll have more interesting observations and stories to share in the next few weeks.

Oh, and so many of you are asking about our birth plan... so, here is the current status. We are planning home birth with a wonderful physician that we discovered here in Bogotá. Our biggest challenge is figuring out the insurance because Ontario insurance will not cover a home birth by a physician (only by a midwife, and this is not an option here). Already moving towards a home birth is quite a stretch for many within our community. However, I am certain this is the right option for us -- the health system here is great in many ways, but it is quite medicalized (which has its pros and cons). For the homebirth the doctor will bring a huge tub and all the necessary equipment he requires; he will be joined by a doula and a nurse. My mom is planning to be here also, so that will help with ensuring that Isabel is occupied/distracted. And, I figure that either the insurance will come through, or we will just have to start fundraising (smile)!!! No matter what, it will be money well-spent. The irony, of course, is that a hospital birth would be far more expensive -- and yet it would be totally covered by the insurance company.

Baby 'j', as this little one has been named, is growing in leaps and bounds. For now, this baby seems quite calm in my very large belly!!! So, we are hoping this time to have not only a healthy and happy child, but also one that actually sleeps (smile)!!!

More photos...

For now, I will be loading more photos at http://picasaweb.google.com/jpstories.

Sundays in Usaquén

I absolutely adore weekends in Bogotá... Saturday mornings I am now enrolled in Spanish classes which I take at a colleagues house a lovely walk from our home (up a nice hill to help keep me in shape); in the afternoons we usually enjoy a nice playtime in the park or visit with friends; on Sunday mornings I have started going to Yoga (well, i went to one class, which is a start... more on that to follow); and in the afternoons we walk through the market in Usaquén, usually buy some fresh corn on the cob which Isabel devours and then play in the square until sundown.

Photo: Isabel walking through tunnel in our playground

We have been here for a month now, and our time feels both long and short. It's amazing how much can happen in a month as one gets to know a new environment; our life in Ottawa feels extremely far away; and Bogota (or what we have explored so far) is taking on the feeling of home with immense ease.

I continue to be amazed by the generosity and kindness of people here -- everyone we have met is eager to help with whatever we might need. And for someone who does not speak the language, the willingness to understand my attempts has been so reassuring -- it makes learning Spanish a joy rather than a hardship. I have officially begun lessons and this will for sure ease the transition to feeling a stronger sense of community. I am relieved (to say the least) that everyone is so forgiving with my poor attempts. The other day I learned that everytime the security guard called up to let us know there was a visitor; rather than saying "let them pass/come up" (que suba), I was saying 'pasado' (which literally means: passed tense)... perhaps I was living a little with my head/heart in the past and needed a kick to get into the present moment. Whatever the root cause, I certainly am happy to have learned the appropriate term, and even more amazed that the guards so generously forgave my poor translation and made such effort to accept this attempt as the correct form. It saved me a lot of hardship of having to explain myself.

As I continue to learn more, I imagine that I will move through both peaks and valleys of understanding the nuances of another language/culture. For now, I have been blessed with people who are generous of heart and do not mind my naive errors and ignorance. Isabel is also beginning to show more and more curiousity about Spanish -- asking to learn new words each day. To be certain, the day is not far off when her comprehension will far exceed mine and I will be unable to offer her a response to her questions. But for now, we are enjoying learning all the simple things; and I am so lucky that she is both my eyes and ears for exploring this new environment. It ensures that I take things more slowly, and forces me to be fully present in the experience.

The other day I had a revelation, as I sat totally exhausted from a day of play/activity with Isabel -- being with her takes more energy than many other things because there is no excuse to escape. It is about truly and completely being in the now. It is about participating in life at this specific moment... not dreaming of the future, or relishing in the past, or whatever other escape our life and mind offers to us. As I embraced the power of this concept, I was amazed at how much it helped me shift my frame of mind. I had been feeling as if time was eluding me and with all the requirements of being a full-time mom in a new city there was little of it left for me. And suddenly I realised that this moment is for me... and Isabel challenges me to live it to its fullest in whatever form it might present myself. I may not get to yoga class every weekend... but I can still enjoy a different kind of yoga with Isabel. The photo above, in some sense, captures the feeling of this revelation for me: it is about moving through a tunnel, with light peaking through at every angle... pausing, not rushing, living fully and completely.

It is as if every emotion is magnified through the experience of the child -- the joys, the fears, the disappointments, the new adventures, the inhibitions, the confidence... It is pure magic -- in its chaos, in its exhaustion, and in its raw purity.

Birthday Gratitude

Here we are celebrating birthdays a million miles away from home. Yet, despite the distance, the beautiful notes from so many of you have made it feel like we are all continually connected. I am deeply grateful for the emails, the letters, and even the flowers that have been sent for my birthday. We had a beautiful day -- though pretty low-key as our little pumpkin woke up with a bad cold this morning. But even with a frog in her throat she woke me up singing Happy Birthday Mama -- it's enough to melt your heart (i wish i had a video)!! We started off with a wonderful breakfast of "bird's nest" (eggs fried in bread) and crepes; followed by a lovely walk in our neighbourhood. We explored the streets filled with vendors, and picked up some delicious treats. Later that afternoon we had a feast for lunch with fresh pasta and cakes that we had purchased at the market. When we bought the slices of cake Isabel promptly reminded Joshua that he must purchase candles for us to sing happy birthday -- so candles were purchased while she napped. Lots of good quality family time, and even some calls from afar. What a perfect day!! Thanks again to each of you for all the words you share... keep sending them along. Here is a little video of Isabel dancing/hopping in our living room/study...

LIFE IN BOGOTÁ – OUR FIRST IMPRESSIONS…

Isabel looking out the window of one of the local pubs (Bogotá Beer Company) in our neighbourhood where we drank fresh mango juice on a lazy Friday afternoon.

Our new home… Bogotá has a population of nearly 8 million people, so needless to say it is a busy city. Heavy traffic is a way of life; rather than something that occurs at specific hours of the day. Even once our car arrives, I don’t imagine that I will be eager to drive. Then again, even though many things in our neighbourhood are within walking distance… walking is not a popular past-time here. People seem to drive their cars for activities just blocks away. Good thing that I am not shy when it comes to exploring. Our neighbourhood, called Usaquén, is tucked away from the activity of the busy city and offers so many delightful things to see at every turn that I cannot help but just put Isabel in the back-pack and walk. There is a beautiful little playground right in our building – which is wonderful for playtime when we just have a few moments to sneak away. We are also surrounded by parks with slides and swings and monkey bars at almost every turn. The swings are amazing – so wide that Isabel can swing easily all on her own.
There is also great shopping centre; Hacienda Santa Barbara was actually built around what used to be a home… it is an unusual shopping mall with both indoor and outdoor shops and cafes throughout. The Hacienda has a Lebanese restaurant – which is such a blessing as I don’t know what Isabel would do without her daily hummus snack.
Each Sunday the streets of Usaquén are filled with stalls offering everything from handmade wooden crafts to paintings to delicious corn on the cob to jewellery and much more… it’s wonderful to just walk around and discover the various crafts. There is even a yoga studio just a few blocks away – where I hope to go on my birthday (this Sunday) for an early morning class.
The architecture and vegetation make all the streets come alive – whether it is raining or shining everywhere we look around us the views in our neighbourhood are just gorgeous. Everything is so lush and full of colour – the flowers on the trees are beautiful; and the varieties of birds sing some delightful tunes. The architecture offers a breath of fresh air as each home is designed with different lines and colours. It is so wonderful to walk down the streets and see such diversity from.
Our apartment is beautiful. We are still getting settled in so it’s missing that ‘personal touch’ but that will come once more of our stuff arrives. There is a fireplace in the living room which we light almost every night – it offers a good source of heat on the cool evenings. The family room has become Isabel’s playground and it’s great for her to have this space of her own. And there are windows everywhere – with a wonderful view in each direction. The calm of our neighbourhood makes it especially striking to look out the windows to a sea of lights from this major city centre. The kitchen is something to rave about – even compared to the one we had back home.

The food… oh so much I can say about the delicious food. The fruits and vegetables are out of this world. I am truly short on words to explain how amazing the selection is – though there aren’t the typical items we are used to like strawberries and grapes and blueberries. But the wide array of other options means that we do not lack for anything. The mangos and avocados are the size of several put together that we would purchase back home in Ottawa. And the carrots we got the other day were gigantic – and so sweet!!! I laughed out loud when I opened a watermelon to discover it filled with seeds… oh how quickly we get used to the wonders of genetically modified foods. Yet the rich taste of the watermelon was so sweet and juicy it was irresistible… the seeds were quickly forgotten, even by Isabel.
We have heard that the restaurants are also fabulous and appear in large numbers. In our neighbourhood alone you can find Italian, Chinese, Japanese, Thai, and much more!! For now, we have been having fun enjoying home-cooked meals, but I am certain we will take advantage of the culinary specialities offered about town.
One thing to note is that it is difficult to find foods that are low in sugar – there is no such thing as plain yoghourt here; or rather, plain simply means loaded with sugar (or fructose). It’s quite an adjustment. Natural and organic products are also hard to find. I have been unable to find any fresh juices that are not filled with all sorts of things that should not be there – but I have quickly discovered that it is just easier to make your own juice here. Something we enjoy each morning!!

The people… I cannot say enough amazing things about the people here in Bogotá. We have been met with amazing hospitality and kindness from everyone we encounter. Friends of friends made offers to pick us up at the airport; and now that we are here to drive us for groceries, give us tours of the city, and so on and so forth. One of our neighbours, Fernanda, who lives in the building with her husband, daughter (3) and son (1) (she is here from Mexico City on account of her husbands work), came to introduce herself the very first day we arrived. She has since become an instant friend and amazing resource – and her daughter (Carola) is Isabel’s first girlfriend here in the city. It’s amazing to watch how kids play – they seem to break down any barriers of language and culture and simply enjoy each others company. We feel so blessed to have met Fernanda – as she is able to help us navigate some of the nuances of life in Bogotá.

Weather & Altitude… Bogotá is located 2640 metres above sea level, which makes it the third-highest major city in the world after La Paz and Quito. The altitude means that it is not quite as ‘warm’ as many other areas so close to the equator. The average temperature on the 'sabana' is 14.0°C (57°F), varying from −8°C (18°F) to 23°C (74°F). When we arrived we were quite surprised at just how ‘cold’ it felt; compared to the warmth of the summer in Ottawa. But then the weekend was glorious and sunny, encouraging us to spend as much time outside as possible. What we have learned is that the weather hear changes in heartbeat so one really needs to be prepared for anything. This afternoon we left our house and the sun was shining; and without much warming the weather shifted and it began to rain; a few minutes later the sun came out again.
The altitude has definitely had an effect on our energy level: leaving us tired and short of breath after any amount of even brief activity. Isabel seems to be the most adaptable having completely settled into all aspects of her new home. She is running and enjoying herself: not even noticing that we are 2600m closer to the stars.
For those of you planning to visit – you don’t need a winter coat, but do bring a jacket (and a raincoat). The temperature will vary and is reminiscent of early fall: when the sun hides it can feel quite cool, but as soon as it peaks out you need to take off the layers as the rays are really strong.
I am definitely finding myself missing some key items – such as good rainboots and a raincoat, as well as some warmer sweaters and pants, and good shoes. I had hoped to do some shopping once we arrived, but everything here is very expensive… so, it looks like I will just need to make do for now.

Challenges… Nothing is without its opportunities for growth, and there are many presenting themselves for us each day. We realised this week that we might have been rushing our integration a little hoping to place Isabel in preschool a few mornings a week. The goal was to offer her a space with other kids so she could learn Spanish and get some good quality playtime. We went to see a few centres and got some glowing recommendations; unfortunately, Isabel was not as thrilled with the arrangement as we though she might be. She found the language barrier really difficult and she just wasn’t ready for such a complete experience. We were going to try to ease her in slowly, but we have decided to hold off until she is more comfortable with the language and her new home. In the meantime, I am putting on hold most of my extracurricular activities and focusing on things that will help both her and I learn Spanish and get to know this city a little better – one step at a time.
I too am finding myself a little overwhelmed at times – the first week I was still in a frenzy to get everything organized and make our apartment feel like home... continuing with my energy level from the months leading up to the move. The other day, I realised that we all need to slow down. Everything will come with time… including my comprehension and ability to speak a new language.
Joshua began work on Tuesday – it was hard to suddenly be on my own all day, and when he came home that evening I found myself yearning for adult company (in English)!!! Joshua can walk to work – it is less than 10 minutes away (which is a real treat). He usually leaves early, but is home for dinner at 6pm; and on Fridays he will usually be home by no later than 2pm. It is wonderful. In two weeks he sets off for his first trip and he will be out of town for a few days: yet another reason I am grateful for the friends we have already made here.
Learning about all of the different items here has also been more challenging than I expected. I had no idea that it could be so hard just to find juice, milk or raisins; even soap, Kleenex and toilet paper is hard to find when all the brands and label are unknown. Trying to get things that are ‘all-natural’ or ‘organic’ is absolutely impossible… though I may have found one organic store in Bogotá, now I just need to figure out where it is and how to get there. Luckily, we do have recycling in our building – which is not always the case.

Gratitude… We continue to be in a space of immense gratitude for all our blessings – most of all the amazing friends and family that complete our life. Thanks, in particular, to those of you who offered so much help and support as we prepared for our departure and completed renovations on our home: for the unexpected visits from near and far; for taking Isabel so Joshua & I could take care of the many last minute details; for sending us connections and lists of special attractions here in Bogotá; for introducing us to friends/acquaintances familiar with the city; for giving us food, plates and cutlery once all of our stuff was packed up; for sending messages of love and support; and the list is endless, as is our gratitude. As we expand our community into a new country, we feel strength in knowing that we have such a strong foundation in all of you to carry us through the transitions of the early days of settling into a new life.

Special News… One final piece of news for those of you we have not seen prior to our departure: Isabel will be a big sister as we are expecting a new addition to our family arriving in February 2009. The baby will be born here in Bogotá – a Canadian citizen with a Colombian birthplace. We will be sure to send photos and share updates along the way.